It was my first time visiting Tinos. Aside from the Cycladic-style homes with their simple square architecture that Tinos shares with its neighbouring island, it was easy to forget that is so close to the party-Mecca and cosmopolitan Myconos. There in the hilly landscape were hidden numerous tiny villages with their characteristic pigeon perches first brought to the island by the Venicians. Step hills with their walls made from rock reminded me of a time where people lived and depended on the earth's fertility. The most personal surprises were the marble crafted in the most un-likely places in the famous village of Pirgos. This small and wonderful town was the birthplace of Greece's most famous sculptor, Halipas, and two of Greece's most famous painters, Gikas and Liras. We found our way to a small church which was filled with people who were celebrating their friends and family who are named Dimitris on that day. They were giving out sweets and Greek coffee and of course we accepted the delicious treats when they were offered to us!
In the town we also found many houses with beautiful marble decorations on the facade as well as workshops attached to some. Despite the rain we walked up the hill to the Marble Arts museum and the small but pristegous school for sculpture (which is a branch of school of Fine Arts in Greece). To our luck we found the students working over their drafting boards and due to the rain we had the whole museum to ourselves! I found out about the quarrying and cutting process as well as how the artists carved into the marble to create beautiful sculptures and decorations. Much of the stone-work done in Tinos is shipped all over Greece, as the artists of the region are masters in their craft.
It was a very fun trip in terms of seeing the art of that region present in daily life. By just walking through the streets you could see everything from paths, a bus station and even a public ATM made from marble. Even the famous monestary of St. Mary housed several masterpieces of Greek modern painters as well as many detailed Byzantine icons.
Although the monestary's museum spaces could use renovating, the money they have given in the past to the island's talented art students as well as to the municipality in support of the arts has been well spent; for instance there is a museum in the main port town dedicated to Halipas' sculptures as well as other on-going arts projects that have been funded by them. For me it was a very rare opportunity to see the work of religious charity supporting the arts - a wonderful chance to see the things people can do for the common good!
In all I had a great time and could never forget the creative spirit present in the town of marble artworks as well the peaceful serenity I found within the monastery of St. Mary, and finally the delicious and fresh sundried tomatoes, capers and local sweets that we bought by the kilo!
